While awaiting the last collections from the Parisian ramps, I picked up my favourites from the New York Fashion Week.
They say it all starts in New York.
Kaelen, was the first show I absolutely adored! It was a sheer delight to see the use of Prince of Wales checks with a modern twist. Crisp garments, sharp tailoring, boxy jackets and trenches with double lapels! Red Valentino actually reminded me of Garavani, it was almost like he had designed the collection for a young Valentino fan, it was cute, there were ballerina’s and butterflies! Bows, embroideries and full-on-flower prints, and the Tutu’s that couldn’t be missed.
One of the major reasons for mentioning Nicholas K is that I shall never forget the fact that the brother and sister duo took final last bow along with their Boxer! Fluid, light-weight garments, with tie-dye and tribal prints, that could be easily worn off the ramp.
Playing with the contrasting silhouettes of slouchy sportswear and seductive bias cuts (Note: The Tennis Sweater with a sequined skirt) was Jason Wu. A brilliant collection with the play of shapes and silhouettes came in luxe suede, soft crepe, sheers and sequins!
Undoubtedly my favourite collection from NYFW has to be Alexander Wang, this genius created a logo-mania, like no-other. It was a tongue-in-chic play on 1990’s branding. The custom-made Alexander Wang logo was deconstructed and Wang stamped in everything from linings, to selvedges, with his initials as intricate laser-cut leathers. A collection that could have absolutely gone wrong, but this maverick proved, that he just wasn’t appointed as the Creative Director of Balenciaga for no reason (I eagerly await to see that collection too).
Thakoon is New York’s favourite boy, and mine too. A super clean collection, it was all about girly charm. Delicate detailing bringing freshness to everyday items.
Oscar de la Renta, was preppy and pretty, very much de la Renta. Soft and elegant tailored day wear appeared along pretty vacation looks. For occasion and evening wear there were showstopper gowns all in a palette of black, white, navy and pastels with statement embellishments. A lot of which I hope to see at the galas.
Jeremy Scott was everything he stands for, and that is FUN. Scott took me back to the fun side of 1960’s, with a bold palette and dramatic cartoon prints. The short, sexy silhouettes were full of character and a great sense of humour. Another collection that took me back to the 1960’s was Ralph Lauren with mod shift-dresses, knee-high socks and miniskirts. The bermuda shorts, tennis skirts and deep V-neck sweaters added the sportswear twist for me! In a stark black and white colour palette, the collection was impressive, something very Lauren, but still not out of the box.
Ralph Rucci and Michael Kors deserve a special mention. So does Victoria Beckham, for the cleanest show ever.
As soon as somebody will read the name Marc Jacobs on this website, they will scream biased (that’s what happens). He ended the New York Fashion week on a high note where he bucked all the trends seen in the week with an overload of trims, appliqué, Victoriana- inspired silhouettes, androgynous sportswear, overblown Hawaiian floral and embroideries. The rugby-striped sweats and the overtly embellished sweatshirts were an instant favourite. The result was a fabulously eccentric mashup!
*Pictures have been sourced from Style.com, WGSN and Vogue.com