Nachiket Barve is known for his softness, his silhouettes, and for creating his own textiles. Barve isn’t a newbie in the business of fashion, but a word that has never been associated with him yet is Fierce.
His collection Māia for Wills India Fashion Week A/W’14 was exactly what we never imagined: Boldly Fierce. While designers tend to only focus on their strengths, Nachiket dared to step into a new territory. Gone were beautiful chiffon saris, and were replaced with garments in leather, velvet and more.
Inspired by the original settlers of New Zealand, Maoris, Māia was born. Nachiket spent a period of his formative years in the country, and drew inspiration from the tribe that came traversing the oceans in pre mechanised times centuries ago. Māia in Māori language means Bravery, Courage, Confidence and Brave Warrior.
Barve’s woman this time was all about toughness and femininity. Highly inspired by the tattoos, he created patterns based on the ‘Kirituhi Tattoos’, which are abstract patterns based on the original Moko tattoos. The other prominent motif in the collection was the silver fern, which is the emblem of New Zealand, and an important part of the Māori Iconography.What struck out was the detailing in each outfit, silhouettes were right on trend in terms of culottes, boxy tops, mini length dresses, oversize slouchy jackets, capes and palazzos. The key detailing saw fringes, colour blocking, embroidery, especially zari work on the ferns, sleeve inserts and sporty elements.
Styled to perfection, the models strutted down the ramp in mohawk inspired hairdo with sleek ponytails, bluish-black lips and customised mouth pieces, and ear cuffs, designed by Nachiket. Given the chance to see the collection up close personally, I could vouch for the finishing with my life. Each garment constructed with such great detailing and impeccable finishing. Custom footwear designed by Nachiket and customised by Serene Gandhi of Cara Pyramids. The booties in black and blue with zipper details added that extra charm to wrap up a collection.
Nachiket told me, that he was using leather for the first time after his NID days, where he played with the textile a lot. My favourites would include the Moko Perforated drop waist leather dress, with the tattoo’s pattern all over it, that was an eye catcher, but what I am lusting over from the collection definitely is the jewelled Moko mini dress in cobalt, white and silver, which apparently took over 250 hours of hand done embroidery work.
This definitely has been Nachiket’s most glamorous collection, where we saw a bold and fierce woman emerging. I definitely see a lot of pieces turning up in the editorials soon, and hoping one of our celebrity dares to adorn that corbeau green velvet gown on the red carpet!